Mauro Uliassi represents the tangible evidence that with perseverance and intelligence it is possible to reach any goal. A due introduction, never meant to diminish the undeniable creative capacities of the chef from the Marche region. Still, he has been able to put them in use of his outstanding human qualities.
In many years of attendance at the Banchina di Levante 6 (East Pier), we virtually never witnessed a wrong move or a choice outside the box. Then, when a hazardous decision made us turn up our nose (which honestly our memory hardly recalls), you can be sure that the critical note was received at exactly the same time in which the waiter had taken back to the kitchen the questioned plate.
Mauro Uliassi is a technical engineer of taste. He is methodical and precise, one that builds any preparation on the firm basis of his and his guests’ knowledge. He never pushes himself beyond his coherent knowledge, that today is of highest levels. Over the years, his abilities have been ceaselessly growing, from those long gone early 90s, when fried and mixed grill plates, namely sensational, would be served on our table.
Mauro studies continuously, he keeps himself up to date, he is never caught in the act. He has a total control of his little world in Senigallia, but with an eye he scans the landscape of the high-class restaurant industry on a worldwide level. And he is always able to keep up with the times.
It is an undeniable advantage, to have somebody like him in the kitchen. Because experience is a synonym for guarantee, for continuous discovery, for extreme pleasantness. Mauro spans with embarrassing talent from complex architectures that exalt the sea, to classic French inspired preparations with game, to creative interpretations of Marche’s regional traditions that enhance the gustatory memory of a curious teenager whom has grown up.
In our last visit, we appreciated the swerve towards fat-free preparations, that allow more room to vegetal elements and to a taste made of acidity and lightness. Voila: Mauro Uliassi, once again, hit on the nail. He metabolizes perfectly where the attainments of high-class culinary art and culinary modernity are today placed. Without any form of revolution or radicalism, he sits by the greats of this wonderful world, reasonably claiming his front seat. And the extraordinary thing (not to be taken for granted in the above-mentioned world), is that he does it while speaking at ease with either the most expert Persona di palato fine, esperto in vini e vivande. Termine combacia attualmente con un'idea creativa e avanguardista applicata al mondo gastronomico.... or the fledgling novice. His creations are meant for everybody, they embody that balance of flavor and intellect which many of his colleagues should envy him (and imitate).
Then, there is all the rest: the minimal and elegant restaurant, the dining room turning clockwise, the beautiful Catia (same Dna…), keeper of the final word. Without her, her brother Mauro probably couldn’t live as peacefully the daily existence of a great chef and a great man.
Waiting for the wine…
Loacker of In francese significa letteralmente "fegato grasso" ed è definito dalla legge francese come "fegato di anatra o di oca fatta ingrassare tramite alimentazione forzata”. È uno dei prodotti più famosi e pregiati della cucina francese. Esistono tipologie di 'foie gras' non derivate da animali sottoposti ad alimentazione forzata. Spesso il fegato grasso è associato all'alta cucina francese e internazionale per... and hazelnut praline, a classic by now.
An Italian bubble, just to start.
Crostino (toasted bread) with anchovies, butter and black truffle: an excellent beginning, between sapid and umami notes.
Cherry shrimps with plum
Cherry shrimps with plum béarnaise sauce and crust of cucumbers and capers: a dish of great impact and harmony of sweet, acid, vegetable and sapid. Nothing is missing.
All-out first. One of Uliassi’s strong suits: the clam broth, shellfish, bitter almonds and herbs play in an iodized blend that leaves you agape.
The bubbles were over…
The ditch. The childhood memories of the chef, when ditches were the place for delicacy hunting. Frogs and snails, millimeter cooking, herbs dosed with the whiffletree. Heartbreaking.
Crispy sole in Particolare metodo di cottura e di conservazione di materie prime ittiche. Il pesce viene prima infarinato, poi fritto e infine disposto a strati con cipolle cotte, pinoli e uvetta passa. Celebri per questa preparazione sono le sarde in saor venete...., Langhirano ham, fresh cheese from Apulia. A dish inspired by Pellegrino Artusi, conceived and normally prepared with mullet, unavailable for our soirée. The sole alters slightly the dish’s delicate balance, but the final bitter note deserves a round of applause.
Chicken with salad. The dish stems from a “top” raw material and a perfect cooking.The aromatic quality and the acidity of the black garlic and squid ink Potacchio sauces, find a perfect balance.
Young cuttlefish with its ink sac, sea urchin slush. When the slush melted, the dish became perfect.
Greater amberjack “alla pizzaiola”. A wonderful dish of great balance.
Just a glass of red wine for the road and there goes the meat. In the end, though, a certain feeling of delusion, because of a hardly memorable vintage.
Fusilli, squid liver, chicory, sea urchins and minced shrimps. Possibly the dish of the evening: acidity and lightness, an intense while controlled aroma. Difficult to make it better.
Tordi (birds), spring onions and sea snails. Sapid and determined. Too bad for the (excessive) spring onion that distracts the palate from the gustatory center of the dish.
Watermelon and cardamom. In principle, the ending of the tasting menu.
But here’s the surprise: Tagliatelle with raw and cooked hare. Now we are really knocked-out…
Ice cream of bucarello cheese and Giorgio Poeta’s honey. How to highlight in a perfect dessert two great local products (the cheese is by Trionfi Honorati in Jesi and the honey by Giorgio Poeta in Fabriano). That’s intelligence…
The scenographic Zuppa Inglese.
Petit fours, it certainly does not meet with the expectations.
End of the evening…