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IN BREVE
Pregi
DIFETTI

A stroll through the “Bacari” – Second Part

A tour through the Bacari in Venice can be the perfect occasion to combine food, wine and culture.
Even just getting lost among the central streets, the “calli”, could be a total experience. You just need nosy eyes, to enjoy each tiny nook of this marvelous city. Yet, for those who want to interpose the visit of some palazzo or exhibition with some “cicheto and wine”, there’s obviously plenty of choice.
Right in Piazza San Marco stands the amazing Correr museum, where you can plunge in the history of the Venetian painting art.
After having crossed the Ponte dei Sospiri, you can move towards the church of San Zaccaria, where you can admire works by Bellini and Tintoretto.
On your way back, through the Canal Grande, you can see the fantastic Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, where Peggy Guggenheim lived until she died. Here you can find her private collection of European and American art of the 19th century, from Picasso to Pollock, from Mondrian to Kandinsky.
But the possibilities in Venice are truly endless.
While back to chatting about shadows and chiceti…

Ai Promessi Sposi
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One simple word should be enough to convince you to stop here: meatballs. As if they were raining, amongst the best you can find in any intra o extra venetian tour. In general, though, the whole chiceti offer is very good, from the octopus with potatoes to the mussel au gratin. The wine list does not excel but folks, those meatballs…#top meatball

The cicheti counter
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The protagonists
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Enoteca Mascareta
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We couldn’t try it personally since, quoting the host Mauro Lorenzon: “it’s all overbuking!!”. Still, we are glad to spend two words about this place and we will surely come back to sit at one of this tables. First of all, because of the great choice of by-the-glass wines. But also to test in person the contagious charm of the host, which we were told about by reliable gourmets.#It will be for the next time
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Glimpses of Venice by night
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Aciugheta
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Kindred restaurant of the more famous “Ridotto”, it is a worthy pit stop. You can sit at one of the many tables and relax your tired limbs enjoying a pizza, with anchovies of course. A good choice of wines (although the temperature of the venue is all but ideal for conservation) and of cicheti. Exchange at least a couple of words with the owner, a person that trickles real passion for his work. A great advantage: it is open till late so it could be the last stop of your tour.#midnight pizza

Pizza with anchovies
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Unsatisfied by the evening we’ve just spent, first thing in the morning we set off again to try out some things we missed the last night…
But only after a stop at the Rialto market. Let the pics talk…
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All’Arco
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After a tour at the market, a visit to one of Venice’s best bacari is a must. It is open only until 05:00 pm, so you should plan a pre-lunch aperitif. Very high standards for the cicheti made with great dedication and high class products. A good fried codfish or a slice of roasted bread with butter and anchovies that could resurrect the dead: the luxury of simplicity. Still, the more daring won’t miss the chance to try a sandwich with “musetto” (similar to salami).
Wine? Nothing too noble, a Prosecco will do.
Vino? Niente di blasonato, ma un prosecchino e passa la paura. #100% Venetian
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Harry’s Bar
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It is impossible to talk about Venice without mentioning Harry’s Bar. A decadent place, but full of history and still loved by the many foreign tourists. In 2001 it was declared National Patrimony. Harry’s Bar has seen at its tables an endless great characters: from Charlie Chaplin to Orson Welles, from Truman Capote to Ernest Hemingway. In Cipriani’s kingdom, Bellini, Carpaccio and Martini Cocktail were born, only to mention some of the most famous creations.
The prices make you shiver (17 euro for a Martini Cocktail) but there is quality in the blends. The glass choice is questionable, but the Bellini as well as the Martini Cocktail are excellent. The price quality relation is obviously unacceptable, but these places couldn’t reasonably be evaluated through typical parameters.
Some green olives, some “so-so” meatballs… and the snap-shot of a world that doesn’t exist anymore was taken.#historical
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High water in San Marco
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To be continued…?

About The Author

Roberto Bentivegna

Either in medicine – his profession – or gastronomy – his first passion – he gives all of himself to catch the most hidden shades. Lover of the mountains around Ferrara, where he was born and still lives, and of Sicily, where he has his origins. He is pretty much a DOC Italian. For years, he's been one of the errant writers in the Internet world. Perhaps, he still has something to write about…

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